31.12.2015 Ouagadougou, Burkina-Faso

*through the crackle and hiss of white noise from the speaker of the radio accompanied by wistles of the wind voice appears, faint at first but becoming more distinct*

…very…sa-..heh…xpectedly happened my first New Year on the road. That feels unusual and strange. Without traditional mandarins, champagne and stuff. On the hot afternoon sun and temperature of 35 during the day. With dusty winds and ice water. In the land of Honored People.

Time to take a look back. 13 countries and five months of travel behind my back now. As usual for me – everything went absolutely not according to plan, but it’s for the better – dash all those plans. I had stuck a lot, but even that was a benefit – allowing me to deeper explore the surrounding people. Africa – it’s an amazing place, though it requires getting used to. Here, I can say, the real journey started. This is an amazing continent that can not be described in few words. Land without stupid prohibitions and with peculiar people mostly looking at the world with an open soul and spontaneity.

During my wanderings I met a lot of people, both locals and travelers, learned a lot of stories and destinies from them. And told mine countless times. People, emotions, feelings – that’s what I went out for. And only during the way you can meet these congenial people. All this slowly changing me, invisible and imperceptible, and that is one of the journey’s goals.

The road has not been smooth. There were moments of despair and unexpected risings – for the last in many respects thanks to those who supported me and believed in me. And thanks to the Positive, of course. Thank you all, guys. I wish you a new year of adventure and plenty of luck. Movement is life. Follow your dream, whatever it may be. Dream big. Take care of loved ones and relatives. And good luck.

Peace for everyone.

Will meet you in the next year. Desert Capybara out. End of connection.

* click *

12.11.2015 Sleeping Camel, still in Bamako

Almost a month has passed since I came here. Truly – be careful with what you wish for. I said that I’ll stay here for maybe a month, look for a job, wait Christian. As a result, I have not found job (those ideas which I had after all were broken off), and it makes me absolutely nothing to do here and I wanted to move on, but other wishes came true. Contrary to my desires.

I said goodbye to Mark and he went in the direction of Ivory Coast. It is time to move off for me but I allowed myself a few days of rest. I’m not in a hurry, it seemed to me that I have a lot of time and was just waiting for the regular monthly flow of funds. Which is not came. And I was trapped. The payment system in the Sleeping Camel consists of saving all expenses “on account” – living in a tent, food, water, everything else – is recorded, and you have to pay upon departure. Without the availability of additional funds I did not have enough of my own to pay off, and all is left to do – to sit and wait for opportunities. With all visas made and serviced motorcycle.

During this time I had tasted almost all of the local cuisine and learn some French. The latter, however, is not much help to me – not only that the language consists of a continuum of sounds, as the locals still chattering on it faster than British on their English. Je ne sais pas, damn. Each day was like groundhog day. All around the circle again and again. At some points I was close to despair. Several times different people offered to me to sell my bike (here it is simple enough) and sometimes that idea slipped into my mind. But I throw it aside. The hope, as they say, dies last. During the process on the advice of Igor Cherskiy I did some useful things – made some changes on site, little twirled here and there, updated the section “About Me” and “Finances”.

The only thing that brightened my stay here – travelers that sometimes wanders into Sleeping Camel.

One day Hinnerk drove through the gates, on one-cylinder KTM about 400 cubes. Half-Ducth-half German, he was also was heading to Cape Town. I helped him with valves adjusting and some other motorcycle servicing. Well, it is always good when there is the opportunity to work with my hands and tell a little about the processes of care for motorcycle. It seems to me that there is still a glimmer of talent of teacher that I buried someday. Route of Hinnerk was similar to mine, which is useful for me – there will be more up to date information about the roads and the situation.


… I was sitting at the bar. Usual evening as well as dozens of previous ones. Overhead fan rotated lazily, driving off pesky insects. From audio speakers in the corner flow the sound of tunes, each of which I learned until the last note. I was finishing the penultimate cigarette when scrawny man with graying hair passed me by. He paused briefly to greet me and we struck up a little conversation. Andrew, from Slovenia. Driving a truck (of course it is Mercedes-Benz) for sale in Burkina Faso.

Andrew complained about the problem with the engine lost power in the last days. I called a myself as a mechanic and offered to help. We chatted a bit, agreed to start in the morning and I went to sleep.


And the next day turned everything upside down. Events rained one after another. I stuck out under the gas tank of the truck with my hands in dirt and oil to elbows and heard my phone tinkles from the incoming messages. Andrew and Eugene, his teammate also from Slovenia, in the same form participated in an exciting process. Goodfellas, with humor and a simple outlook on life. At one point we had a smoke break and I turned to the news of the phone. My Mother! Christian comes tomorrow! But the main thing is not it. The most important thing – its s a few incoming donations and at last! At last!!! I got an opportunity to escape from here. Yesterday I did not know how to deal with the situation, and today I was full of hopes and plans. I could go back on the road! To top it off – Andrew invited me to visit in Burkina, and so I got the first point to stop.

I could not sleep half the night being excited. And the next morning I began to gather being in euphoria. All that is left to me – to write this post, ready for dispatch and chat with Christian. Back on track!


P.S. I was suggested that people might be interested to hear about the local food and booze – ask in comments sections if so.

13.09.2015 Agadir, Morocco


The next link of my journey was to Agadir. Big city with the tourist area, very popular, though not as well known as the Casablanca. And the city which is picked up the relay baton of Marrakesh in an effort to surprise me.

While still in Marrakech I got CouchSurfing invitation for a couple of nights buy a guy named Zakaria, or just Zak. Having agreed to meet him at a certain point of Agadir I moved out of Marrakech, as always, quite late. But I did not regret it for a second – closer to the end of the trip I was blessed with a beautiful sunset in the middle of the mountains of red.

When I arrived in Agadir it was already dark. I gradually progressed to the point of the meeting. Overtook the bus on an adjacent lane when suddenly it began to honking and blinking lights, obviously wanting to get my attention. At first I had thought that I had something fell from the motorcycle, but everything was in place. Then I slowed down and the bus caught up with me. The driver smiling leaned out the window and shouted: “You know Abdellatif from Berrechid?”. Confused about question I answered him in Russian:
– “Da”!
– “Well, I’m his brother.”

What a meeting! We stopped at the edge of the road and exchanged joyful greetings. Since Zak awaited me there was not too much time to talk, but we agreed to meet later in the next day. I drove on, inspired by an event. Well, Agadir greets me warmly. Soon I was on the point of the meeting, where I met with Zak and we got to his house. It was late so we made a little chat and fell asleep.

The next day, Zak invited me to get out of Agadir. We purchased alcohol and provisions and went into the house with a view of the ocean not far from Agadir. It was definitely a wonderful evening. We were visited by Zak’s friends, morrocan guy Said and russian-german girl Rimma. Rimma was able to talk in Russian (and switch back to russian was not always easy, hehe), and Said told a lot about the Berber culture, language and music. I got in a perfect mood. These moment are definitely worth of living.

About Zak I can say a lot. This wonderful man was the first of my friends in Agadir and we spent a lot of great moments with him and his friends. Getting into a bar, going onto the beach, partying in the guest house… One of the things that I will not forget – the headlights of his car showing twisted gray tongue of asphalt in the black night; cool air rushes through the open windows; and Pink Floyd at full volume. That precious moments of life. Zak also was my “lucky star” – with a strange coincidence every time he was around the good news began to arrive. Everytime. At first I did not attach any importance to this but then it became too obvious. Well, when he stayed near and the ATM spit out 200 dirhams instead of the requested 100 (and sms from the bank I got shows that withdrew one hundred) – I believed completely. Probably I should to go to the casino with him one day.

The following days, almost a week, I spent in the Yassin’s family house and met all his brothers and friends. Yassin, Abderrahman, Amin, Mustafa, Brahim, Rashid. Each of them was very kind and careful in everything, and I felt myself like at home. We walked with friends, riding on “tobis” (as they call buses), visited the markets, went to the beach, drank a huge amount of tea (“atey”, as it is called here), and I learn a little bit of Arabic and Berber words. Seniors of family could not communicate with me because of the lack of a common language of communication for me and them, but nevertheless I have always been accepted as a member of the family. Here, I soaked the local life like nowhere else Morocco.

At one point the guys from the Positive asked me to write a report about my adventures in Southern Europe. I sat down at the laptop, started to press the buttons … and suddenly lost my peace within. I was angry, I was damn angry, all was seething inside me and for a long time I could not understand the reasons for this state. I called one of the friends, Abderrahman, for a walk. We went out in the evening twilight and I tried to find the reasons for the huge waves of almost rage that overwhelmed me. In the end I was able to find an explanation. After two weeks in Morocco, I was able to see a completely different life, a different culture, but most importantly – absolutely different people. And Europe lost comparing them with a crushing score. Indifferent, empty, living in their own little world, closed – that’s how I now saw the majority of the people I met on the way in Europe. People living happily, but concerned only about not to loose their well-being, not noticing the life that comes around. I have no right to blame them (although I had already done so), but one thing I do know – that something is wrong with the world. Something is wrong with us.

I was not able to find peace inside that night, but after walking I felt myself little relieved. Help came unexpectedly – Amin, one of the friends, offered to get somewhere away from Agadir, on a wild beach, and have a camp there. It was exactly what I need. In the local alco-shop we bought bottle of Russian vodka, bought provisions and rolled out in the afternoon. After a few hours of the road we found a great place close to Ait Tamer. Wild beach, the minimum number of people, the ocean – a worthy place to stay.


We pitched a tent, made dinner, Moroccan tea, and in the end uncorked vodka. Amin did not refuse to drink, but in his words – the last three times when he tried to drink vodka were terrible. I taught him how to drink the right way, russian way. We chatted about everything, warmed our feet near open fire and laughed. After some time Amin went to sleep in a tent, and I finished off the remnants of bottle, sang a few songs, and being drunken finally felt peace in my soul. The next morning, a picture inside my mind reflects the outside one – clear skies, bright sun and lazy waves. I was at peace. We returned back to Agadir without incidents. At the end of the day there was a more good news – Zak invited me to stay at one of his family houses (he and his family lived in the other). It was very handy, as despite the absence of any problems in the Yassin’s home I did not want to somehow disturb these fine people with my too long presence.

My long staying in Agadir explained simply – Mauritania visa costs 50 euros, and I was waiting for money from my rented out apartment. It’s quite a bit of resources (especially given our exchange rate from roubles), but for a short time that should suffice. But the most important thing is not in that. One day in Agadir I wrote a post about my adventures on the way to Marrakech and people from the Internet caught it. What happened!!! The small and large sums of money began to come. As a result nearly $300! WOOOHOOOO!!! My friends, those who participated in this, who helps the people who helped with the dissemination of information – thank you very much. There are no words to express my gratitude to you. I felt that I was not alone in this world. I felt that no matter what – again I can continue to tell the story. I was strongly elated! And despite the slight poisoning (probably swallowed ocean water on an empty stomach), which made me lain for two days in a fever – I was happy. Now I can go on! And I plan to do this tomorrow. Stay in touch! There is a one and a half thousand kilometers till Mauritania ahead.

P.S. On May 1st of this year, the Government of Senegal in order to attract tourists abolished visa fees, as well as online registration for it. What gives me the chance to get a visa at the border! Great news!

P.P.S. Uwe, I finished reading the book. Thank you for it. And for help. You’re the one of the guiding stars of my journey.

23.08.2015 Sevilla, Spain

… I was lying in a sleeping bag next to a motorcycle somewhere in the middle of the field, tall grass hiding me from prying eyes. I had not money for campsite. Tormented by thoughts of the future I could not sleep. I looked up at the sky where the clouds were moving against the stars and trying to figure out what to do next. Stars slowly lulled me, but in the morning it began to rain, kicked me out of the cozy heat in the inhospitable start to the day. The mood was no good at all.

At that time, when despair came close to my mind and was going like a thundercloud overwhelm all other thoughts – there was a gleam. First one, then another, then a third … soon I was completely in the opposite mood point. Guys, thank you so much… Thank you Uwe, thank you Andrew, thank anonymous unknown. Folded wings were spreaded again. I regained the ability to move on. Each of you are now left a part of himself in this journey. And do not forget to write the addresses where to send the postcard, I beg you! So I could somehow repay you.

In the following days there was not even a lot of events, but the circumstances. Initial plans to cross the Atlantic from Europe to the United States was destined to fail. Fate decreed otherwise. I myself made a huge mistake not searching for the ship in advance, even before the start. In my thoughts and researches on the Internet all seen a little differently. Transatlantic – very popular route in the end. Of course, this is not a train goes every half hour, but … I have visited almost all the major ports of the west coast of Southern Europe – all in vain. There was something wanted to send me on a different path. At the last port, in Sines, I could have been able to find a ship. It goes each week, they said. Give us a formal request by e-mail, they said … I stuck at camping near Sines in the whole week. Every day – one answer: “we have not yet come to the calculation result of value and the circumstances of your request.” And no, you can not communicate directly with the crew. This is oil port, we are all seriously secured. No, no more can be said.

My patience ran out on Friday night. The working week is over, still there is no answer. The weather deteriorated as the always happens when I’ve got to go further. Burn all in the blue flames, I am going to Africa! I decided to took a relax day without serious thought and then come back in a way.

As if to prove the correctness of my intentions happened Saturday night. By chance I found out that at nine o’clock in the bar at the campsite stands a singer and guitarist. Local frequenter highly recommended it to me. Well, why not? So shortly before nine in the evening I was at the bar. Soon came a performer. Fate, providence, luck, I do not know what to call it. From the first song swirl of impressions and emotions overwhelmed me. During its journey more than once I have seen times when everything suddenly becomes so natural, building a feeling of what is happening in separate microcosm, saturating my understanding that there this is the journey. This was one of that moments. Beautiful voice and guitar have taken away my thoughts, and I feel that everything is going exactly as it should. Carlos was the name of the singer. His performance could reach the brightest feelings inside me. People around singing and clapping to the beat, and I was overwhelmed by tsunami of feelings and thoughts. I sat at the bar and at the same time dissolved in an event. I was like in my place, here and now. With my right solution, with support from friends, with music that drew in the imagination of the road, the villages,the turns. I wanted to laugh with joy.

The next day I moved in the direction of the southern coast of Spain.

Anonymous again!

I’ve recieved a donation with one comment: “When do you go away already?”

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any buried treausure yet, but I’m working on it! And I hope journey would start anytime soon.

Anyway, Thanks! You got me another one step closer to Biggest Dream.