08.08.2015 Gran Canyon du Verdon, France

Well, what a day!

Last day did not bring anything interesting. All autostradas in Italy are tollroads, so screw them – such thoughts were expressed indignation in my mind after I paid almost 40 euros for the way from Milan to Rome. So I happened to stray on SSG1, but it’s a sin to complain about that – road goes along the coast, sometimes revealing stunning views. I was hoping that the fresh breeze facilitate my movement and weaken the envy of local bikers, racing in shorts and T-shirts. But in vain – no breeze. And again +37 in the shade. On the morning priority goal is to get up, pack up and leave early to pass at least part of the road without hellheat. And of course that goal usually unsuccessful. So it happens again. I decided to take a dip in the Mediterranean in the morning – I took instructions about way to the sea at the reception and eventually wandered for two hours, storming the fences and getting into private area (campsite is 2 kilometers from the sea, but cheap!) while right path to the sea takes only 20 minutes. Mediterranean – cold and boring … hmm. But I put a tick! Checked. In the end I left very late.

Most of the way I just went through the Italian Riviera watching the little and not-so resort towns. Here as usual is dancing and fun but it was a bit strange not to feel myself as a part of companies having fun. Watching the dolce vita I slid farther hoping to get to Turin. But in vain – the darkness overtook me for Genova. I tried to look for camping – without success. The Italians seemed ashamed of this kind of vacation, each time to find the camping GPS points is a quest. No signs, no pointers. I hardly fight temptation to take a picture of my middle finger and the tablet with GPS points and an empty field on the background.

As a result, I found the service road under exit from highway and once again put the bolt on the prohibition of vagrancy. Pitched tent near someone’s vineyards, in the grass. Again, I slept like a log! I think I starting to like it!

The next morning foreshadowed finally move to France. Uwe, that German friend from Sweden gave me a couple of must see points on my route, I put them into Navi and Mamma Mia!!!! I do not know how to describe it. I was thinking all day about it, but in my head did not come any ideas how to describe it in the text. It is simply impossible! How to describe the most beautiful things created by nature that I’ve ever seen? Mountain lakes, mountain almost dry rivers, waterfalls, overhanging cliffs, tunnels, mountains, clouds … Photos did not help – I reviewed them all. Of course, I will publish them with a stable Internet, but it’s not that … It’s not that. Not at all. Many times I have heard a lot about the Alps – but how to describe the feeling when you’re sitting on the edge of the Gran Canyon du Verdon, your legs dangling into the abyss, and you feel dizzy from the altitude, despite the fact that you are never afraid of it? That feeling of microscopic yourself compared with the creations of nature … Stelvio Pass – cold and eternal, while Verdon – is alive, it breathes. Huge, huge and alive … No word, though. I sat and smoked, legs dangling over the cliff and all I wanted to – no cars passing by in next minutes. Peace and unity with overwhelming. I thought I’ll smoke a cigarette and go, but could not budge for good 20 minutes and would have stayed for many more minutes but here comes twilight and subsequent attempts to find a campsite in the dark.

… The only thing I missing – human communication. Somehow lately there is problems with that. There is no interest in the communication from people, and anyway most of them do not speak English… It’s kinda sad.

P.S. Slightly improved karma dragged maxiscooter (with a torn belt) on the tow for 5km, near Turin. It was fun.


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